Qryztufre

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There are two ways of viewing “naturals” in perfume.

The first is that it smells like something natural. So a synthetically created eugenol that happens to smell like vanilla might be classed by some perfumers as “natural” in that it mimics something more molecularly complex.

The second is that it is or came from the natural. The assumption here is that at the beginning of processing a given chemical, there was a real live plant (or in some cases animal) involved. This is also the area where questions are raised because of what happens in order to distill that chemical or scent. For example, some argue absolutes are not natural because of the hexane used in processing - while it still starts with a plant, it is rendered “unnatural” because of any solvent residue. I disagree with this, personally, although I understand and can follow the reasoning: to me an absolute is still natural, although it may not be quite so environmentally friendly or safe to use as a result of the use of hexane. I expect to see some of these arguments subside as C02 extraction becomes continuously more applicable to delicate botanic sources.

These differing approaches to the meaning of “natural” is in part where the marketing melee originates. Industry marketers may well know the meaning of “natural” coming from a modern traditional perfumer, but will also know that a typical western consumer operates on the belief that the definition of natural falls into the second category; all too few are aware of the difference and that the only guarantee is the USDA certified organic label or the EU equivalent.¹

All materials are copyright Diana Rajchel and Magickal Realism (TM) C 2007 (TM) C 2008 Magickal Realism (TM) is a trademarked fragrance brand.

1. I am unversed in any organic certification available beyond EU and US. [↩]

In the latest communication from Cropwatch, there was mention of a Global Harmonization Act of 2008. This piqued my interest - I’m not exactly thrilled with the decisions about perfumery materials IFRA has been making, since they are founded on next to no data, and harmonizing the FDA standards with EU standards - standards that IFRA has far too much say in thanks to the chronically overburdened nature of such agencies - I am a bit concerned. My concern may be for no other reason than because I like my over the counter headache medicine to have an effect without having to take half the bottle. It could also be because yet more legislation will impact my life and livelihood while I have little or no say in the matter.

Certainly, the overarching goals of the Global Harmonization Task Force are noble: making sure every country is on the same page about pacemakers and prosthetics is pretty darned important to the people that have them and to the medical systems that support them. It says on their website,

“The purpose of the GHTF is to encourage convergence in regulatory practices related to ensuring the safety, effectiveness / performance and quality of medical devices, promoting technological innovation and facilitating international trade, and the primary way in which this is accomplished is via the publication and dissemination of harmonized guidance documents on basic regulatory practices. These documents, which are developed by five (5) different GHTF Study Groups, can then be adopted/implemented by member national regulatory authorities. The relationships between the work of each Study Group can be represented schematically.”

Reasonable goals, to be sure.

Yet there is intimation that some of those goals will have a resounding impact on the cosmetics and fragrance industries.

Such regulation would have a huge impact on all our lives. Yet on a surface search, I could only find this reference on the FDA website to anything regarding the act. In the electronic access form, it sends me back to the Global Harmonization Task force page - where I can’t find a complete copy of the act or guidance referred to. I’m going to give a try to the writing or faxing method - I really want to see the data, in full detail.

All materials are copyright Diana Rajchel and Magickal Realism (TM) C 2007 (TM) C 2008 Magickal Realism (TM) is a trademarked fragrance brand.

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"America," I replied.

"America is a good country. Very strong."

"No, it's just average."

"Oh no, it is great. Not like China. china is inadequate. Too backward."

"But you are progressing rapidly," I said.

"Not enough. We'll need fifty years of progress to catch up with America."

"But on the economic front, China's progress is much faster than America's," I said, thinking of the double-digit GDP growth that China had enjoyed over the past decade since Deng's reforms took wing.

"You say the economic aspect," he said, having caugh my other meaning. "You don't think the political aspect is progressing?"

"Not after June 4th."

That was the date of the Tiananmen Square massacre.

"Ah," he sighed and went silent.

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Yesterday was one of those “prepare things for future work” days. We got 2 large cedar trees cut into 10 foot pieces and dragged them out to an area where we can get them on the truck. We will get them to the top of the hill and I will get the bark off and prepare them for the center posts for the roof.

We got the plywood up in the corners for the walls to square them off. That was not a very easy task…lol. We then got the windows screwed in and everything ready to start the roof. The next step is cutting 14 four foot pieces of 2x4’s to raise the front of the roof for the house and get the 2x4 and 2x6’s on it. The center posts will be installed and then we will soon be working on the rafters. It won’t be long….*crosses fingers*…..until we are screwing the tin on and moving in. It will be labor intensive the next few weeks.

I have taken vacation the last week in the month so I can be home and help finish things up and get moved into the new place by June 1^st. I am already starting to pack up boxes of books and such and get everything ready to move in. I will be so glad when we can take a day to rest. I plan to make sure I have at least one day to just chill on the porch with a glass of lemonade and work on a quilt…or maybe oil paint or something.

Right now we have $3,580.00 in the house. The roof will be about $800 for the tin and screws. With that it looks like we may actually be able to reach our goal of less than $5000 because if things go as planned, we will have about $4,610. This includes the foundation, floor, porches, subfloor, walls, windows doors and roof. That is pretty darn amazing if you ask me! Now grant you, it is a house with no electric, indoor plumbing or septic system….but it is our dream home and to be able to do it on schedule so far and for that low price just feels great.

I have already given up my home PC, so I will not be able to contact anyone via email, IM or such during the evening hours. I am preparing myself for the big move and losing all electric and phone service….except the cell phones of course.  There is also no microwave, toaster or small appliances in the house, no lamps in the bedroom anymore, no blow dryer and no more foot Jacuzzi. LOL Today I will start practicing the meal prep by trying to cook all meals in 2 or less pans. One pot meals and such because out first wood stove will only have 2 eyes on it. I still plan to cut the dishes down to just bare essentials before we move.  I will be glad to get rid of the entertainment center…and everything on it. OH yeah….certain friends can expect packages from me soon. I have a few things I will no longer need but could not bear to hand over to strangers….so I am gifting them to the few people I love.

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I’m only voicing my opinion here, and it is based simply on things that I smell a lot and see requested a lot. There’s nothing scientific about it, nor am I going to put up my dukes and punch it out. But I am going to say that there are certain fragrances that are quite popular, and their popularity sometimes works against them - in part, because the popularity can lead to overharvesting and plant extinction, but also because smelling a chemical too frequently can degrade our perception of it to the point where we no longer benefit from the emotional impact of the smell.

I would say, at the moment, these are the top ten most overused:

1. Vanilla

2. Lavender

3. Sandalwood

4. Patchouli

5. Cinnamon

6. Chocolate

7. Sugar/Candy-based scents

8. Jasmine

9. Berries

10.  Grapefruit

Some folks may have other ideas, and I certainly do still use these in fragrances myself - market demand is, after all, market demand.

All materials are copyright Diana Rajchel and Magickal Realism (TM) C 2007 (TM) C 2008 Magickal Realism (TM) is a trademarked fragrance brand.